Buttermilk Farro Salad

If your first impression is that this recipe looks suspiciously similar to my Dilled, Crunchy Sweet-Corn Salad with Buttermilk Dressing, you are not incorrect. Yes, both recipes feature a starchy carb base, buttermilk dressing, and lots of dill. However. While the corn salad conjures a chilled summer soup— sweet, drinkable and milky—this Buttermilk Farro Salad is far meatier, almost like a creamy risotto. The buttermilk, too, takes on a different function. Rather than a dribbling dressing that pools at the bottom, the liquid is slick; coating the farro just barely, luxuriously, like melted cheese.

Any likeness to richness stops there. The farro is delicately peppered with slivered late summer vegetables, impossibly refreshing in their raw, slender form. Sometimes I forget that an unaccustomed texture has the power to make a vegetable feel like an entirely different ingredient. Zucchini often gets tiresome past its mid-summer zenith, but barely-there ribbons feel completely new. Fennel is frequently braised in pursuit of its caramelized potential, but here, the wispy mandolined strips are a total breath of fresh air, like a more flavorful celery.

If you are unfamiliar with chives, do seek them out if you can—they are the cherry on top of a salad bellowing summer, though scallions are a perfectly acceptable alternative. You can probably tell that this recipe is included in my "big batch salad" list from a mile away; indeed, I made a double serving for the week, mixing in arugula, chickpeas, and hard-boiled egg for a hefty lunch.

Aside from a trip to the farmers market/grocery, this salad is essentially a pantry dish. That goes for the buttermilk too: 1 tablespoon of lemon juice stirred into 1 cup regular milk makes a quick homemade batch. As we approach the part of summer where we are reminded of its mortality (shorter days, brisker morning temperatures), the widespread “did I make the most of this season??” panic sweeps in. Inevitably, this premature nostalgia is followed by a scurry of bucket-list picnics and beach visits, so when it’s time to menu-plan, remember this salad! Consider it August, in a Tupperware.

Buttermilk Farro Salad (from 101 Cookbooks)
Serves 8 as a side, 4 as a main

Ingredients:
2 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp fine grain sea salt
1 cup buttermilk
¼ cup white wine vinegar
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ cup chopped dill
½ cup chopped chives (can substitute scallions)
1 tablespoon chopped thyme
7 small radishes, sliced paper thin
3 small zucchini, sliced paper thin
1 medium head of fennel, trimmed and sliced paper thin
4 cups cooked farro, cooled to room temp
chopped chives for garnish
Arugula, chickpeas, hardboiled eggs (optional, for serving)

Directions:
1. Combine the garlic and salt on a cutting board. Mash into a paste using the flat side of your knife. Place in a medium bowl or jar, then add the buttermilk and vinegar. Whisk together and let sit for 5 minutes or so. Gradually whisk in the olive oil, then the herbs.

2. In a large bowl gently toss the radishes, zucchini, and fennel with the farro grains. Add 1 cup of the dressing and toss again. Let sit for ten minutes, taste, and adjust with more dressing, if needed, and salt to taste. Serve sprinkled with chives.

Butternut Squash Salad with Farro and Pepitas

As I was mindlessly scrolling through Instagram last week (New Years resolution: do less of that), I came across this quote. “People are so worried about what they eat between Christmas and New Year, when what matters is what they eat between New Year and Christmas.” It got me thinking about my own past behavior, namely, gauging myself with sweets and alcohol in that coveted vacation week—only to go to the other extreme, a juice cleanse, in the days after as an attempt to negate my poor eating choices.

This type of seesaw eating is not only unhealthy, but also extremely anxiety provoking. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve curtailed these periods of “extremes” for a healthy balance somewhere in the middle. I try to mostly eat a diet of whole, unprocessed foods, focused on ample vegetables, whole grains, lean proteins, and healthy fats. I generally stay away from excess sugar. When I indulge, I don’t get hung up on it. I treat that as “sometimes” behavior, and move on.

Apropos to this mindset, my early January diet won’t be a frantic attempt to reverse any immoderation from the past week. Rather, it will be a reset back to middle ground; looking at the future instead of dwelling in the past. This Butternut Squash Salad with Farro and Pepitas was my first recipe of 2018, and I’ve been eating it with gusto all week long.

Shocker to nobody: I don’t think I’ve ever met a farro salad with roasted vegetables I didn’t like. That being said, the number of times I’ve encountered one which wildly supersedes its predecessors is scant. This is one of those rare occasions, and the winning ingredient is most surprising. It’s… the onions?!

Here, while the farro cooks, finely chopped red onion is quick-pickled in a simple brine of vinegar, water, salt, and sugar. Then, the entire concoction—brine and onion bits—is poured into the salad for a lovely acidic tang that hits on all seasoning notes. Without this dressing, the grain and squash combination could easily feel too earthy, even dull. But the pickled onion adds sprightly vim, enhanced further by dots of crunchy pepitas and silky, heavenly ricotta salada.



To the original recipe I added Brussels sprouts and garbanzo beans, and cut back on the olive oil and crumbed cheese per my personal preference. These changes are reflected below. While I encourage you to consume this salad upon completion, I will say it is the kind of dish that tastes even better with time. I’m on my fourth day in a row of eating it for lunch, and the flavors have never been better.

Butternut Squash Salad with Farro and Pepitas (tweaked slightly from Smitten Kitchen)
Serves 6

Ingredients:
1 medium butternut squash (about 2 pounds)
1 lb Brussels sprouts, halved (optional)
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 ½ cup semi-pearled farro (the kind that cooks in 20-25 minutes)
1/3 cup toasted pepitas
1/3 cup ricotta salata (omit to make vegan)
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar (or red/white wine vinegar)
1 tablespoon water
½ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon granulated sugar
½ small red onion or 2 shallots, finely chopped
1 can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed (optional)

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

2. Peel squash, then halve lengthwise and scoop out seeds. Cut squash into approximately 3/4-inch chunks. Coat one large or two small baking sheets with 2 tablespoons oil total. Spread squash (and Brussels, if using) out in single layer on sheet. Sprinkle with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Roast until pieces are tender, about 30 to 40 minutes, turning them over halfway through the cooking time. Set aside to cool slightly.

3. While squash is roasting, cook farro in a large pot of simmering salted water until the grains are tender but chewy, about 30 minutes or per package directions. Drain and cool slightly.

4. While squash/Brussels are roasting and farro is simmering, in a small bowl, whisk together sherry vinegar, water, 1/2 teaspoon table salt and granulated sugar until sugar and salt dissolve. Stir in onion/shallot; it will barely be covered by vinegar mixture but don’t worry. Cover and set in fridge until needed; 30 minutes is ideal but less time will still make a lovely, lightly pickled bulb.

5. In a large bowl, mix together roasted veggies, farro, red onion and its vinegar brine, the crumbled cheese, pepitas, and garbanzos, if using. Toss with 2 tablespoons of the remaining olive oil. Taste and adjust seasonings (you might want to add more vinegar). Salad keeps in the fridge for up to a week.

Citrus Ginger Tofu Salad with Buckwheat Soba Noodles

I recently read a great article by Chrys Napolitano about rising to the challenge of staying locavore during the winter months.  Recognizing urban local winter eating as neither easy nor haphazard, she relayed a few simple rules in Edible Bronx for practicing the sustainable philosophy.

First and foremost, plan ahead. Her article was riddled with tips for freezing, pickling, and dehydrating late autumn produce. As we’ve clearly missed the boat on this one, I’ll relay two principles that stuck with me and are actionable right now.  First, know what’s in season. For New Yorkers, cabbage, cauliflower, root vegetables, winter squash, dried beans, apples, pears, arugula, baby spinach, and baby kale are produced steadily throughout the winter. Did you know that just shy of two dozen GrowNYC Greenmarkets are open year-round?

Second, accept that compromise is ok. Certain produce, such as citrus, avocados, nuts, and olives, will never be local in the tri-state area. “Don’t sweat it!” Chrys emphasizes.  Noted, and the perfect segue into this Citrus Ginger Tofu Salad with Buckwheat Soba Noodles recipe.

Starting with local kale, carrots, and cabbage, this salad boasts an A+ on the nutrient and crunch scale; broccoli florets contributing to the attractive texture/nutrition profile, too.  Add delightfully smooth, earthy soba noodles and crisp tofu squares— enveloped in an Asian citrus dressing that hits every flavor nuance imaginable—and this salad is simply sensational. The marinade for the tofu consists of orange juice, soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger, garlic, maple syrup and cayenne and is repurposed for the salad's dressing; perked up with added citrus and acidity through lime, rice wine vinegar, and extra orange juice. Garnished with basil, cilantro, and sesame seeds, the salad is sprightly and animated; a triple-the-recipe dish for sure.

I’ve made this salad a few times, once substituting chicken breast for tofu, which works just as well. I definitely recommend doubling or tripling the marinade/dressing, as if you are like me— using the entire bunch of kale and whole head of cabbage because it's there, that is—your salad will be underdressed.  A quick note: 100% buckwheat soba noodles (which make this recipe gluten-free, in addition to using tamari instead of soy sauce) are expensive, about $8.99 a package. However, combination buckwheat and regular wheat noodles run at a much more reasonable price point, comparable to regular spaghetti.

So while native citrus will always be a no-go in the Empire State, you can reduce food miles by aiming for domestic citrus rather than that grown in South America. Florida is in citrus season right now.  We’re just in cold and flu season, so I’m thinking it’s definitely a good time to get a healthy dose of that vitamin C.  Plus, simply being locally mindful—even if you’re not practicing with diligence—counts for something, for sure. 

Citrus Ginger Tofu Salad with Buckwheat Soba Noodles (from Food52)

Serves 4

For the Tofu & Marinade:

1/8 cup orange juice

1/8 cup tamari or soy sauce

1/8 cup toasted sesame oil

1/8 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp finely grated ginger

1 clove garlic

2 tsp maple syrup

¼ tsp cayenne pepper

1 package extra firm tofu

For the Salad:

Leftover marinade

Zest of 1 lime

Juice of ½ lime

1/8 cup orange juice

3 Tbsp seasoned rice vinegar

Sea salt to taste

½ package Eden Buckwheat Soba Noodles

1 stalk broccoli, florets only

1 large carrot, peeled and cut into matchsticks

1½ cup lacinato kale, de-ribbed* and cut into ribbons

½ cup green cabbage, shredded

1/3 cup cilantro, chopped

8 basil leaves, chopped

1 Tbsp sesame seeds, toasted

Optional garnish: chopped roasted peanuts

Directions:

1. Preparing the Tofu + Marinade: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. In a bowl mix together orange juice, tamari, sesame oil, olive oil, ginger, garlic, maple syrup, and cayenne and set aside. Cut the tofu into 1-inch cubes and place into a small baking pan without overlapping. Pour the marinade over the tofu. Put the tofu into the oven and bake for 15 minutes, stir, and bake for 15 minutes more until browned. With a slotted spoon, scoop out the tofu and place onto a plate and allow to cool. Pour the remaining marinade into a bowl and set aside.

2. Preparing the Thai citrus vinaigrette: Add the lime zest and juice to the remaining marinade. Continue to add the orange juice, rice vinegar, and sea salt to taste. Set aside.

3. Preparing the salad: Cook the soba noodles as described on the package, rinse with cold water and set aside. Meanwhile, bring a small pot of water to a boil, and blanch the broccoli florets for 30 seconds. Immediately strain the florets and rinse with cold water. Put the noodles, blanched broccoli florets, carrot, kale, cabbage, cilantro, basil, and sesame seeds into a large bowl and toss. Dress the salad with the Thai citrus vinaigrette.

4. Serve the salad topped with baked tofu and garnished with sesame seeds (and peanuts, if desired).

*Optional. De-ribbing kale takes so long, and in my book, no one notices the absence of said ribs except yourself. Skip if you're crunched for time.  

Charlie Bird’s Farro Salad

Is there anything more glorious than preparing a meal on a summer evening at a beach house? I feel like I could write a Haiku about this.  Sand running through your fingers, backdrop of crashing waves as you discuss tonight’s dinner menu with companions. Noticing your salty, sun-kissed skin on the way to the farm stand for vegetables. On to the fishmonger for catch of the day—it will be grilled, of course.  Back at the house, on the deck. Glass of rose in hand. Running to the garden barefoot for fresh basil and mint.  I should shower! You say. Nobody showers. Somebody makes guacamole. Opens another bottle of wine. Dinner served long after the sun disappears in a haze of brilliant hues. The air has a chill, grab a sweatshirt. Stare up at the stars. The languid day is infinite. You feel the happiest, and most content, you ever feel. This is summer.

 

I’ve had the pleasure of experiencing this type of beach house living the past two weekends on the East End of Long Island— where, to my delight, I witnessed the comestible shift the local farming community has made on the region. Of course, traditional New England summer fare like lobster, mayonnaise, buttery potato buns, coleslaw, and corn remained prolific.  But seeping through the culinary seams was produce—fresh, abundant produce!—thanks to a strong agriculture community and a more health-conscious, sustainable-minded population.

 

Propelled by its maritime climate, the 400-year-old East End agricultural industry sees revenues of over 1 billion dollars a year, and the signature “Grown on Long Island” label emanates reverence and pride. The value on produce is omnipresent. Farm stands and cultivated fields dot the roads.  The source of a vegetable accoutrement mentioned proudly on a restaurant menu. Caravan, a take-out shop in Amagansett, offering a weekly list of prepared meals driven by what’s available at the surrounding farms.

 

As a self-proclaimed vegivore (who, during the latter weekend, happened to also be accompanied by a vegetarian), I was thrilled at the emphasis on local produce, fresh salads, and whole grains. But as a member of our eating society, I was simply proud. Is the farm-to-table mindset finally leaving an indelible mark on our culture? Of course, we gravitate towards fresh produce in the summer, because it is prolific and the season is short. But are we finally ready to seize the trend year round? Give picking through wintered greens the same enthusiasm we give to finding dark cherries or powering through a watermelon? I dare to hope.

 

Below is a recipe for Charlie Bird’s Farro Salad, a sensational summer dish filled with seasonal delights. From the farm, tomatoes, radishes, and arugula. From the garden, fresh parsley, basil, mint. From the pantry, a splendid and slick vinegary, lemony, olive oil dressing.  The farro is sweetly nuanced with apple cider and bay leaves; toasted pistachios and shaved Parmesan add a nutty, salty finish.  The salad energetically welcomes a topping of grilled scallops or shrimp, but is wholly satisfactory on its own, too.  In true dietician’s daughter-fashion, I halved the olive oil and doubled the greens, adding baby kale along with arugula and extra tomatoes and radishes. I imagine fresh blueberries, cherries, or diced peaches would work wonderfully in the salad too….and it goes really nicely with a side of corn on the cob. Can I say it again? This is summer. Cherish it while it’s here.  

Charlie Bird’s Farro Salad (adapted from the New York Times)

 Serves 6 dainty eaters, 4 hungry ones

Ingredients:

1 cup farro

1 cup apple cider

1 tsp kosher salt, more as needed

2 bay leaves

3-4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice (slivered rind optional)

½ cup Parmesan cheese, shaved with a vegetable peeler

½ cup chopped toasted pistachio nuts

4 cups arugula leaves (baby kale and spinach work too)

1 cup parsley or basil leaves, torn

1 cup mint leaves

1 ½ cup halved cherry or grape tomatoes

¾ cup thinly sliced radish

Maldon or other flaky sea salt, for Finishing

Directions:

1. In a medium saucepan, bring farro, apple cider, salt, bay leaves and 2 cups water to a simmer. Simmer until farro is tender and liquid evaporates, about 30 minutes. If all the liquid evaporates before the farro is done, add a little more water. Let farro cool, then discard bay leaves.

2. In a salad bowl, whisk together olive oil, lemon juice and a pinch of salt. Add farro, cheese and pistachio nuts and mix well. This salad base will keep for up to 4 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator (bring to room temperature before serving). Just before serving, fold in arugula, herbs, tomatoes, radish and flaky salt to taste.